Bay Blog

The Silver Coast Beer Festival is upon us, 1st and 2nd December, just up the road from Obidos...

Join some of the stars of the upcoming show on our morning show and get a sense of the pure Portuguese pleasure that awaits revellers this coming weekend.

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I have known São Martinho do Porto for six years and only set foot in this wonderful place a few weeks ago. What a gem! But so well hidden ... in plain sight!!!!

See what happened when Johnny Cocktail tried Licor Beirao for the first time there.

On Facebook

Following the success of our first and second gatherings at the Storytellers, it looks like the fourth Wednesday meetup there - with a 3-course set meal for 25 euros, inc. soft drinks and coffee - is a monthly fixture.

Meet Midday in the Gatsby Bar, with lunch served at 1pm in the company of locals and VIPs who have travelled fromn as far as Lisbon, Cascais and UK to be with us.

See also this extraordinary event at the luxury venue

Olá boa tarde! With Palmeira closed for most of November, I'd like to try something a little different and in keeping with my recent efforts to be more active and fit. May I present to you the first of my "café to café" walks - it's still important to enjoy the good life in Portugal! 

I suggest tomorrow, Wednesday, we meet outside Palmeira (maybe grab a quick coffee at the 'yellow café') and once gathered, say 1.10pm, head for Salir Do Porto, specifically Bar das Piscinas, as shown on the attached map.

Wet weather plan: Stay in Yellow café

For those not walking: head straight to Bar das Piscinas, see you there 🙂

Heather Binder of Boots on The Ground Portugal has a recommendation for you - Flavours of India, Caldas Da Rainha.

Find Heather here

Flavours of India on Facebook

Flavours of India on Tripadvisor

"It's been a while," as GuMPer Garvo likes to say, but the São Martinho do Porto Bay Blog is back with an update...

• Our new domain to bookmark is: www.lovesmdp.com

• After the success of our firstmeetup at the Storytellers' Palace, this is now a monthly event - see pic and check out this, our first menu from Marco...
  
  To start: Manga Ceviche
  Choose from: 
  1. Fresh Tagliatelle with Shrimps
  2. Mushroom Risotto
  3. Lasanha do Prado (lasanha made with vegetables without pasta)
  Dessert: Portuguese Arroz Doce
  On the table: bread and butter, waters & ice tea made with infusions
  Coffee

Join the WhatsApp group to keep in touch with further dates

Get a GMP!VIP discounted stay at the Storytellers' Palace

Book a stay

• Recent Portugal Resident about The Storytellers' Palace - read here

• Join us for our third Portugal Discovery Weekend in SMdP - details

• Our Facebook group

• The SMdP WhatsApp group

I don't remember writing all the blogs and reviews below! Expect more soon...

Verbatim from the Alcobaça Camara website 

According to a study by the real estate company Imovirtual published today, São Martinho do Porto was the region with the most exponential growth (+183%) in demand for holiday homes in May and June of this year, compared to the same period in 2021.

São Martinho do Porto even surpassed Faro, Quarteira and Albufeira in this indicator.

The study reveals that the Portuguese looked for more holiday homes in May and June this year (+9.2%), compared to the same months of 2021. The highest demand was seen in the case of apartments (+42.4% ), while housing shows a decrease of -33.9% in the same period.

“The signs of the recovery of tourism in the county are very evident and demonstrate the quality of our offer. These numbers are also a reflection of the prestige that São Martinho do Porto has won over many decades, which is an extraordinary achievement”, underlines the Mayor of Alcobaça, Hermínio Rodrigues.

Learn more HERE

Delighted with this! Thank you Pam and John...

"My wife and I plan to move to Portugal; thus we have done our fair share of research and arranged a scouting trip to explore the various parts of the country.  A hugely significant start on our journey was to find a warm friendly online community of expats willing and able to answer any and all inquiries.  Furthermore, to top it all off, the host of this community gladly agreed to meet up with us to give us a personalized guided tour of his home town and other villages nearby!

Folks, I present to you Carl Munson, maitre d’ of the Expats Portugal website and host of the Good Morning Portugal daily YouTube live show.  Carl and his family are delightfully proud of their adopted home town of Sao Martinho do Porto (SMDP) which is just one small part of a lovely region known as Portugal’s Silver Coast. 

We met up with Carl at the Cafe Palmeira right on the beach in SMDP and after we all had coffee; off we went on what proved to be a memorable day.  We began with a thorough exploration of Sao Martinho by taking several winding narrow side streets only a local would know to see hang gliding cliffs, residential areas, stunning vistas, and to visit Kate, a neighbor lady with a lovely garden and a sick dog. 

We next took a brief look at Salir do Porto, a small residential community just on the other side of the perfectly scalloped bay.  Next on our “Tour de Carl” was the nearby larger town of Caldas de Rainha, beautiful gardens, shopping centres, country villas were abundant.  We also visited Foz do Arelho and Nadadouro on a wonderful large inlet and gorgeous beaches that stretched off for what seemed like miles. 

Last on our travels was a visit to the superbly historic town of Obidos with its medieval castle and cobblestone streets and shops within the castle walls.  My love for history was thrilled with the knowledge of walking around a place that can claim a pedigree that starts with Celtic settlements, Phoenician trade centres, Roman civitas, subsequent Visigoth settlements, then the Moorish period, and finally leading to the Kings of Portugal. 

Wow!  Thank you Carl so much for a truly memorable couple of days and the warm friendship you showed to me and Pam.  I will forever remember capping off our time together with Meia de Leite and meat pies for lunch and later a delicious dinner with your lovely family.

Fellow travelers; if you too are considering Portugal as your new home, I strongly recommend that you link up with the Expats Portugal YouTube community and get in touch with Carl to make personal connections and take advantage of the very many resources available."

Book a tour or a talk with me

Originally a Trip Advisor post ('A treat for the tastebuds, the family and the discovery of yet another Silver Coast asset')

Set off with the dog thinking that I might bag a cheeky grilled chicken at the market churrasqueira when, on arrival... NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Closed at 8.30!!

Mrs M wanted chips mainly, so me n Jimmy Chew set off for town, insulated picnic bag in hand, on a mission to find a takeaway - somewhere in out-of-season SMdP.

My favourite part of town - the upper cobbled lanes - didn't disappoint, daring me to pop into this fine establishment, seeking 'para levar', having been aware and attracted to it for some years now.

A quiet night for them, but a great find for me, with an affirmative on take-out service from a great looking menu.

Picked some safe prawns in the house style and out of the ordinary seitan with pineapple sweet n sour.

A 15-minute wait allowed me to take Jimmy to the beach for one of his many jimmy (riddles) and even pay the water bill at the cash point (multibanco).

Dog walked, bill paid and back up the hill to collect my order and make the walk home in somewhat chiilly conditions, praising myself for the thermal holdall choice.

A bedroom picnic seemed the ideal serving option with curious kids circling and a hunger-weakened wife.

The delicious chips were devoured soon after opening, prawns were consumed with universal delight, the seitan (though actually tofu) wowed the crowd, served as it was in a half-pineapple boat and the salad unusually finished.

I didn't need another reason to validate our choice of living in Sao Martinho, but this lovely eaterie supplied a few in this first experience.

We will go back, perhaps just me n Mrs M for a quiet niet out, anticipating delicious food, in a warm (Amalia-blessed, ambience with attentive yet unfussy service.

A nice evening was upgraded by A Nova Gaivota with a treat for the tastebuds, the family and the discovery of yet another Silver Coast asset (-:

From Expat's Portugal's 1000 Things to Enjoy in Portugal...

The 'Festas de Santa Antonio' returns to SMdP, starting Friday 10th June with acts booked EVERY NIGHT through the the climax on Sunday 19th.

Let's look for a moment at the saint behind this festival - Saint Anthony - who local legend and tourism office team member Gastao assures us, is Portuguese and NOT Italian!

Anthony of Padua, as he is known,  or Anthony of Lisbon (António de Lisboa) as we prefer here, was born Fernando Martins de Bulhões, 15th August, 1195 and died in Italy, 13th June 1231. He  was a Portuguese Catholic priest and friar of the Franciscan Order. 

"Noted by his contemporaries for his powerful preaching, expert knowledge of scripture, and undying love and devotion to the poor and the sick, he was one of the most quickly canonized saints in church history," says Wikipedia.

He is the patron saint of, among many other things, Lisbon, lost items, lost people, lost souls, amputees, animals, oppressed people, Portugal, pregnant women, shipwrecks, runts of litters and counter-revolutionaries.

Here to help you in the São Martinho do Porto as an English-speaking resource, 'ambassador and concierge' - do let me know how I can help.

Contact me: carl@carlmunson.com

What a delight to be invited to the opening of Bonham's yesterday, the new realtor/estate agent in São Martinho do Porto. Hosts Patrick, Eugenia, Enzo and Gastao offered a warm welcome to clients, friends and family at their beautiful new premises with a superb beachfront location.

My picture, an after-thought after some superb conversation and hospitality, does not do their wonderful décor and ambience justice. Go see for yourself some delightful properties in the most exquisite of surroundings if it's a home you are looking for in and around the bay.

More here: http://bonams.pt/

Av. Marginal, Edf. Baía, nº5, store D, 2460-096 São Martinho do Porto

10:00 am to 7:00 pm (Monday to Friday) and 9:00 am to 2:00 pm (Saturday)

Call (+351) 262 989 680

"With a standard of seriousness in the provision of real estate services, it seeks to do good business efficiently, thus providing tranquillity to its customers. Originally created to sell properties according to the needs of our customers, over the years it has expanded its operations throughout the country."

Another celebrated São Martinho do Porto hospitality 'institution' under recent, new management, Ó da Casa was the last-minute choice for our recent wedding anniversary dinner. 

Our first choice, a little-known (to foreigners) and well-loved, seafood cellar turned out to be closed. So in celebratory mood and with YOLO vibes abounding, we walked back to the front and set foot in what must rank as among the best in town, newly-refurbed but mercifully quiet.

Local lad Antonio led the way after a formal Maître D-style  welcome on the door. Service here is noticeably of a higher and attentive level than most restaurants in the bay, thereby ensuring a great sense of occasion on our special night.

Coincidentally, we were seated at Ó da Casa's best table in my view, offering a sweet view of the sea and a good distance from other diners. From here we witnessed a classic São Martinho sunset with our dessert of baked apple and Bailey's ice cream, with a couple of glasses of complimentary port.

Before that, we began proceedings with a pair of flutes filled with indigenous fizz, some classic Portuguese Bairrada espumante, whilst deciding what to order from an impressive and stimulating menu.

Here, fresh fish - as detailed by staff according to daily availability -  is sold by weight, and after much deliberation we chose to share a hefty Sea Bass, cooked Meunière-style - an engaging and mouth-watering change from our usual choice of grilling, as is the norm locally.

The fish was fresh, beautifully cooked and filleted for us at the table by friendly, yet suitably formal António - an excellent and helpful young man who we encouraged into conversation about local and national culture and history. We were equally impressed by the accompanying, deliciously-fresh and tasty vegetables, as was Mrs M by the house red.

This was an unusually quiet night according to another informative and friendly waiter Paulo, who we also engaged in educational conversation. Another Silver Coast local, it was inspiring and heart-warming to hear from him of Foz do Arelho's decadent clubbing past in the 90s, where apparently thousands of Portuguese revellers descended every weekend. We saw the legendary videos to prove it!

All in all a fabulous night out. Great service, superb yet unpretentious food and a beautiful memory to add to a rich and growing bank of lovely experiences, as we relax more deeply into the easy embrace of Portugal's Costa de Prata.

As far as cost goes, it's not often we go into three figures for the pair of us. But then again it's not often we go out without the kids. So let's call it value rather than cost, for a truly memorable night with my beautiful dinner and life companion. Truly wonderful. As was dining at Ó da Casa (-:

Love you Mrs M X

---

Bookings: odacasa.smp@gmail.com or call 00 351 262 989 473

On Google Maps

From the year we fell in love with this place, 2017, the great glass elevator at SMdP's tourist information office - https://freguesiasaomartinhodoporto.pt/servicos/localidades-festividades/

10-05-22 - MAKE A BOOKING

Had an enquiry, from friends who are "big fans of small 2-star Portuguese hotels, often family run", about the Bay's Atlântica establishment. Apparently they have a 2-night B&B offer for about €100, and my pals want to know if the location is good for the pair of them to enjoy a short stay in the bay.

I too like this type of accommodation, so gladly gave them my assessment, if only from outside. Reception was unmanned and staff sounded busy elsewhere so left them to it. But family-run and intimate is definitely the vibe here. This, on my way to the hotel's integral restaurant - 'Restaurante Carvalho' - or Mr Skinny Legs' cafe as my kids call it (see pic).

As far as location goes, it's hard to be more centrally located than Hotel Atlântica, positioned in the heart of town, less than a minute from the beach, and across the street from SMdP's tourist information office. 

Likely to be 'atmospheric', i.e. charmingly noisy at all hours at the height of the season, it is a great location. Here you'll feel the town's pulse and be well positioned for baia, bars and buzz.

Incidentally, I really enjoyed my lunch at their ground-floor eatery Carvalho. Me delighting in a well cooked Dourada (golden bream) with fresh veg and boiled potatoes, and the kids sharing a pizza, the remains of which went home 'para levar' (one of my favourite Portuguese phrases).

Chatting to the waiter, seems the hotel and restaurant are under recent, new management. This bodes well if they are eager to please and I'd say the "sea view room with balcony at €115 for 2 nights bed and breakfast" will make for a fun break, if not an entirely relaxing one.

For tranquility and solitude, check out a B&B between SMdP and Nazare, just off the Atlantic ridge road perhaps. But for all the fun of a buzzing beach break,  this looks like a great deal and choice once the car is parked up and the flip-flops are on.

Check availability / Book a stay

Beach at the end of the street!

Until today, I've been driving to Caldas da Rainha for compost ('dirt' to you US friends!). What a relief then to find a new and very friendly garden centre in neighbouring Alfeizerão.

Looks like early days, but they have - pardon the pun - hit the ground running with a colourful and attractive range of plants, containers and aforementioned growing medium, along with a very thoughtful kids' play area to keep your gnomes busy while you browse, dream and shop.

Something here for ornamental and produce growers alike, Vale D'Elfos is just about the last plot on the right side of the road, as you leave town, heading for the Tornada road/A8.

Watch out for the steep entranceway the likes of which never seem to bother Portuguese drivers. For me, the smell of newly-bought foliage and bagged compost was momentarily blended with hot clutch fumes. So be careful just how much you're tempted to load into your vehicle! 

Find them on Facebook

PS Correct me if I'm wrong ... SMdP doesn't have a garden centre, does it?

We moved to Portugal in 2017, first to Tomar, and then - fearing death by fire - on to Sao Martinho do Porto on the Silver Coast.

"Wow!" we thought, as we arrived in town. "We could live here!"

And so began a phenomenon repeated each time we arrived in a new Portuguese town: 'Sao Martinho do Porto' syndrome - a very frequent, and possibly fickle, infatuation with every charming new village, town or city that we encountered.

When looking for somewhere to live over here, spoilt for choice you will likely be. And in the scheme of worldly challenges and first world problems, it's a good one to have. That said, still a possible source of anxiety and frustration when you are keen to put down roots.

Sun, or at least fabulous, cheery blue skies, are ubiquitous here. But the many manifestations of Portuguese soul and sensibility will probably catch your eye and heart as you scout and scour the country on the search for your dream home and location.

Solutions? 

It's a subject we are tackling on this week's Premium Plus course/plan, and a discussion I look forward to having with those who are accelerating their plans to come to Portugal, on this week's group call.

Another sound option is to consider a good enough 'base camp', from which to explore and savour at your leisure, once here and experiencing this lovely land through your senses. This is not a huge country by say American standards, so picking a place that is central, well-connected and ticks enough boxes, is a sensible solution to the syndrome described here.

Power of Community 

See also the Expats Portugal forum. Here you'll find seasoned expats and happy homemakers, as well as others still searching, who will no doubt either sing the praises of their favoured location(s) or steer you away from places that have not worked out in their own experience.

Here's an example when Jane asked about Braga.

Helpers & Sherpas

Consider also the real estate agents/buyer's agents we work with for local insight, but again be prepared for having your head turned, even towards places you've not included in your first draft of places to be. This is certainly happening in the North as soon as anyone sits down for a Cafe e Nata with Vitor Costa

• Cascais

• The North

• Central

• Lisbon/Algarve

We are pleased to have recently added Ana Caramujo of Savvy Cat this list too.

In conclusion

So is that any clearer? Probably not! That's Sao Martinho do Porto syndrome for you. But you do know where we are if you need help.

With 10,000+ community members, 10,000+ subscribers on YouTube, and 800+ podcasts covering most of life and living in Portugal, we are a great place to start that search for the place of your dreams and your future life in Portugal!

Start here: www.expatsportugal.com

"One of the best decisions I ever made upon relocating to Lisboa, Portugal was to become a member of Expats Portugal hosted by Carl Munson.  It has proven to be an invaluable resource on many levels.  

First you have so many experts in their fields as part of the Expat Community not only from Portugal but other locations.  The knowledge and guidance with instructions on various topics is outstanding on a consistent basis.  We have just fun, lots of laughter with sharing stories, photos, wine, gardening, health, and legal information pertaining of Visa relocation, etc.  

Expats Portugal is your neighbor next door welcoming you to the community.  I highly recommend joining Expats Portugal anywhere in the world." - Katherine